ICE CREAM, YOU SCREAM

I stop by my neighborhood Swensen’s quite often for a scoop of ‘Light’ Mint Chip on a sugar cone. Although this shop is convenient, I have to say that Baskin Robbins is at the top of my list for the best mint chip. They get my top rating because of the thin chocolate flecks that are evenly distributed throughout the scoop and as an added plus, don't get stuck in your teeth like some of the larger chocolate chunks found in other brands.

Upon browsing the Williams-Sonoma website, I came across an interesting recipe for this ice cream that involves combining chocolate and oil in a double boiler and adding it to the cream while the ice cream maker is running. This causes the chocolate to break up, creating those small flecks. The first time I made it, I followed the recipe exactly and used fresh mint. But for my second attempt, I wanted to achieve a more ‘classic’ peppermint taste that is derived from using an extract. Following is the adapted recipe:


Mint Chip Ice Cream

1-1⁄2 cups milk
1-1⁄2 cups heavy cream
4 egg yolks
1⁄2 cup plus 2 T sugar
Pinch of salt
1 ½ t peppermint extract
1 or 2 drops green food coloring (optional)
1 or 2 drops blue food coloring (optional)
3 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 t canola oil

In a heavy 2-quart saucepan over medium heat, combine the milk and 1 cup of the cream. Cook until bubbles form around the edges of the pan, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a bowl, combine the egg yolks, sugar, salt and the remaining 1⁄2 cup cream and whisk until smooth. Gradually whisk about 1⁄2 cup of the warm milk mixture into the egg mixture until smooth. Pour the egg mixture back into the pan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon and keeping the custard at a low simmer, until it is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon and leaves a clear trail when a finger is drawn through it, 4 to 6 minutes. Do not allow the custard to boil. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Stir in the peppermint extract and food colorings.

Place the bowl in a larger bowl partially filled with ice water, stirring occasionally until cool. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it directly on the surface of the custard to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours.

About 1 hour before freezing the ice cream, in the top of a double boiler over barely simmering water, melt the chocolate, stirring until it is melted. Then stir in the oil. Transfer to a small pitcher and let cool to room temperature.

Transfer the custard to an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When nearly frozen and the consistency of thick whipped cream, add the chocolate while the machine is churning or stop the machine temporarily, add the chocolate and restart to mix. Transfer the ice cream to a freezer-safe container. Cover and freeze until firm, at least 3 hours or up to 3 days, before serving.

SOLE SEARCHING

My good friend Helena contacted me the other night in search of a recipe for Sole. While I don't claim to be the next James Brown, I do have a few recipes that can be thrown together for a quick weeknight meal. The first and second recipes, Pan Fried Sole and Sole with Breadcrumbs, have great texture, which is my key requirement when cooking and eating. The third recipe, Sole en Papillote (parchment paper), produces a more tender, soft texture and makes an impressive presentation. I like to serve these with a squeeze of fresh lemon, rice and vegetables. When I’m nostalgic for my days abroad in London, I eat the breaded Sole with Malt Vinegar and Oven or Sweet Potato Fries.


Pan Fried Sole

Sole
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Butter
Minced Garlic
Kosher Salt and Fresh Ground Pepper

Rinse the fish and season both sides with salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium high heat. Add the olive oil and minced garlic. Sautee for 1-2 minutes being careful that the garlic does not burn. Add the fish and cook 4-5 minutes per side (depending on thickness). The fish is done when the inside is just opaque and flakes.


Sole With Breadcrumbs

Sole
Breadcrumbs
Garlic Powder or Herb Seasoning (optional)
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Butter
Kosher Salt and Fresh Ground Pepper

Rinse the fish and season both sides with salt and pepper. Combine the breadcrumbs in a shallow bowl with the salt and pepper and garlic and herbs (if using). Add the fish and coat both sides with the mixture. Melt the butter with the olive oil in a frying pan. Add the fish and cook 4-5 minutes per side (depending on thickness). The fish is done when the inside is just opaque.


Sole en Papillote

Sole
1-2 Zuchinni, julienned (cut into thin strips)
1 Yellow Onion, thinly sliced
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
White Wine
Kosher Salt and Fresh Ground Pepper
Parchment Paper (NOT Waxed Paper)

Preheat oven to 400º. Tear off enough Parchment Paper so it can be folder over, to create a pouch for the fish and have about 6-7” of overlap. You will need one piece of parchment paper for each piece of fish. Place the zucchini and onion in the center of the paper. Place the fish on top of the vegetables. Season with salt and pepper. Add a drizzle of olive oil and a splash of white wine. Fold the paper over the fish so the edges of the paper line up as close as possible. Starting in one corner, fold and twist both layers of the paper together to create and air tight pocket. Continue to do this all the way around all three raw edges of the paper. Your finished result should look something like a half moon. Place the parcels on a baking sheet and bake 15-20 minutes (depending on thickness). For an extra nice presentation, place the parcel on a plate and cut it open at the table when served.

STOCK UP

One of the requirements of most good chefs is using a homemade stock or broth, especially when making soups. I decided to try an Asian broth recipe from one of my favorite cookbooks, ‘Hot Sour Salty Sweet’, with the intent of making a large batch and using it for various recipes. The broth turned out to be tangy and delicious and very easy to prepare. It can also be frozen for several months.

Any or all of the following can be added to the broth for a tasty Asian soup: Baby Bok Choy, Green Onions, Mushrooms, Spinach, Beaten Egg, Diced Tofu, Somen (or any Asian noodle), Shredded Chicken (that was used to make the stock).

Basic Southeast Asian Broth

1 Whole Chicken or 3 to 4 lbs. (I used chicken breasts with skin)
Water to cover
6 Cloves Garlic, peeled
2 Shallots, halved About
10 Peppercorns
3 Slices Ginger (about 1” thick)
1 Bunch Cilantro
Salt and/or Thai Fish Sauce to taste

Rinse the chicken well. Place in a large heavy pot and add cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, skimming off and discarding any foam that comes to the surface. Add all the remaining ingredients except the salt/fish sauce; stir well to wet them and simmer, half-covered for about 40 minutes.

Place a sieve over a large bowl and strain the broth. Let the broth cool completely,then pour it into or more containers. Cover and refrigerate. After several hours, a layer of fat will have solidified on the surface; skim it off and discard. You can use the broth immediately or refrigerate it for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months. You can season it after skimming off the fat or instead wait and season it with salt and/or fish sauce just before you use it.

GETTING TOASTY


A Labor Day BBQ amongst friends presented the perfect opportunity to attempt an angel food cake dessert. I have experimented with angel food cake recipes in the past, but found the rubbery, sponge like loaf to be lacking texture, at least by my standards. It wasn't until I ate a toasted version at Bistro Don Giovanni in Napa, that I found myself craving this dessert. At this restaurant, they served the toasted cake with macerated berries and crème anglaise. Following is my recipe for Toasted Angel Food Cake with Mixed Berries and Lavender Cream. If you do not have access to a BBQ grill, toast the cake in a 375º oven until golden on each side.


Toasted Angel Food Cake with Mixed Berries and Lavender Cream

Angel Food Cake cut into 3” slices (I use a store bought cake)
2 T butter, softened
1 bag frozen mixed berries, thawed
2-3 T sugar
*1 pint whipping cream
1 T dried lavender (make sure it is the edible kind)

For the Lavender Cream
Crush the lavender in a mortar and pestle. Transfer to a bowl and add ¼ cup whipping cream. Heat over the stove (or microwave about 30 seconds) until lukewarm, not hot. Let lavender and cream steep about 30 minutes. Strain cream mixture through a sieve. Discard lavender. Combine steeped cream with remaining pint of whipping cream. Beat with an electric mixer until soft peaks form.

For the Berry Topping
Combine the berries and their juice with the sugar and set aside.

For the Toasted Cake
Brush each slice of cake (on both sides) with a thin layer of butter. Place on the grill and cook a few minutes per side until lightly toasted.

To assemble, place cake on a plate and top with berries and whipped cream.

*Vanilla ice cream can be substituted for the lavender cream.

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